Mount Nun Expedition (7,135 m)
The Highest Peak in the Zanskar Range of the Indian Himalayas
About the Peak
Rising to 7,135 meters (23,409 feet), Mount Nun is the highest peak in the Zanskar Range of the western Himalayas, located in the stunning Suru Valley of Ladakh, India. It forms part of the Nun-Kun massif along with its sister peak, Mount Kun (7,077 m), just 3 km away.
Mount Nun offers a challenging climb with breathtaking views of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges, making it a prized objective for serious mountaineers.
Location
Suru Valley, Ladakh, India
Range
Zanskar Range, Western Himalayas
Elevation
7,135 meters (23,409 feet)
First Ascent
1953 by Swiss-French team
Climbing Heritage
Mount Nun has a rich climbing history, from early explorations to becoming India's most popular 7,000-meter peak for experienced climbers.
Early Exploration (1906)
Fanny Bullock Workman and William Hunter Workman surveyed and photographed the area, helping to map the region.
First Ascent (1953)
Completed by Pierre Vittoz (Swiss), Claude Kogan (French), and Sherpa Kunga Nima via the South Ridge. Claude Kogan was a pioneering female mountaineer.
1960s-1980s
Multiple Indian expeditions (often led by the Indian Army) and foreign teams from UK, Japan, and Poland began climbing Nun, exploring variations of the original route.
1990s-2000s
Became more accessible to commercial expeditions while remaining a serious challenge due to crevasse dangers and severe weather shifts.
Modern Era
Now the most popular 7,000er in India for climbers preparing for 8,000m peaks, yet significantly less crowded than Nepalese peaks.
Climbing Characteristics
Mount Nun presents significant technical challenges that make it an excellent training ground for higher Himalayan peaks:
Common Route
West Ridge/North-West Face via glacial basins and steep snow faces
Weather
Rapid weather changes and severe storms
Glacier Hazards
Deep crevasses and seracs on the Nun glacier
Technical Difficulty
Glacier travel, fixed rope work, steep snow and ice climbing
Expedition Details
Best Climbing Season
- July to September offers the most stable conditions
This post-monsoon period provides clearer skies and more predictable weather windows.
Permits & Regulations
- Permit: Required from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)
- Special Clearance: Sometimes requires local army clearance due to proximity to sensitive areas
- Guides: Experienced guides recommended due to technical challenges
Why Climb Nun?
7,000m Challenge
Ideal preparation for 8,000-meter peaks like Everest with serious high-altitude experience.
Less Crowded
Offers a true wilderness experience away from commercial peaks in Nepal.
Technical Variety
Provides diverse challenges including glacier travel, ice climbing, and high-altitude endurance.
Gallery
Ready to Conquer the Highest Peak in Zanskar?
Join our expertly guided Nun Expedition and challenge yourself on this magnificent 7,000-meter peak in Ladakh.
Book Your Expedition