Mount Kamet (7,756 m)
India's Third Highest Peak in the Garhwal Himalayas
About the Peak
Standing tall at 7,756 meters (25,446 feet), Mount Kamet is the third highest peak in India and the second highest in the Garhwal Himalayas, after Nanda Devi. Located in the remote Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, close to the Tibetan border, Kamet has long fascinated explorers with its pyramid-like shape and glaciated flanks.
Kamet made mountaineering history in 1931 when it became the first peak over 25,000 feet (7,620 m) ever to be climbed — a world record at the time.
Location
Garhwal Himalayas, Uttarakhand, India
Coordinates
30.9208° N, 79.5971° E
Elevation
7,756 meters (25,446 feet)
First Ascent
1931 by British expedition
Climbing Heritage
Mount Kamet first caught the attention of British surveyors and explorers in the late 19th century. Its remoteness, unpredictable weather, and difficult glacier approaches kept climbers at bay until the historic first ascent.
Early Explorations (1855-1913)
Reconnaissance missions by explorers like W.W. Graham and Dr. Tom Longstaff helped map approaches and identify viable routes.
First Ascent (1931)
Led by Frank Smythe, with summit team Smythe, Eric Shipton, Lewa Sherpa, and Rinzing Sherpa via the East Kamet Glacier and Meade's Col route on June 21, 1931.
1950s-60s
Indian climbers and the Indian Army began exploring new lines on Kamet, including technical faces and ridges.
1970s-80s
Japanese and European teams attempted and succeeded on more difficult routes, including the North Face and South Ridge.
Modern Era
Kamet continues to be a prestigious objective for experienced alpinists and is used as a training ground for 8,000-meter expeditions.
Climbing Challenges
Kamet presents significant technical challenges that make it an excellent test for high-altitude mountaineers:
Extreme Altitude
Thin air above 7,500 meters presents serious altitude challenges
Glacier Hazards
Crevassed glaciers and icefalls on the approach routes
Steep Walls
Steep snow and ice walls near Meade's Col
Harsh Weather
Strong winds and sudden snowstorms are common
Expedition Details
Best Climbing Season
- Pre-Monsoon: May-June
- Post-Monsoon: September-October
These windows offer the most stable weather conditions for summit attempts.
Permits & Regulations
- Permit: Required via the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)
- Border Area: Special permits needed due to proximity to Tibetan border
- Team Size: Limited team sizes to minimize environmental impact
Why Climb Kamet?
Historic Peak
Climb the first peak over 25,000 feet ever summited in mountaineering history.
Technical Challenge
Excellent preparation for 8,000-meter peaks with serious altitude and technical terrain.
Less Crowded
Experience a true Himalayan adventure away from commercial peaks.
Gallery
Ready to Conquer Kamet?
Join our expertly guided Kamet Expedition and challenge yourself on this historic Himalayan giant, the first peak over 25,000 feet ever climbed.
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