Mount Kun Expedition (7,077 m)
The Historic Twin Peak in the Nun-Kun Massif
About the Peak
Standing at 7,077 meters (23,218 feet), Mount Kun is the slightly lower twin of Mount Nun in the Zanskar Range of Ladakh, India. Part of the Nun-Kun massif near the Suru Valley, Kun holds significant mountaineering history as one of the first 7,000m peaks ever summited.
Despite being overshadowed by its taller twin Nun (7,135m), Kun offers its own unique challenges and has served as an important training ground for Himalayan climbers for over a century.
Location
Zanskar Range, Ladakh, India
Massif
Part of the Nun-Kun massif
Elevation
7,077 meters (23,218 feet)
First Ascent
1913 by Italian expedition
Climbing Heritage
Mount Kun has a rich climbing history that spans over a century, making it one of the most historically significant peaks in the Indian Himalayas.
First Ascent (1913)
Completed by Italians Mario Piacenza and Lorenzo Borelli - one of the first 7,000m peaks ever summited in history.
1950s-60s Exploration
British and Austrian teams attempted Kun while early Indian expeditions conducted reconnaissance missions.
First Indian Ascent (1971)
An Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) team successfully summited via the West Ridge.
1980s Popularity Growth
Japanese and Polish climbers attempted alternative lines as Kun gained reputation as a serious training peak.
1990s Training Ground
Regular climbs by Indian Army, ITBP, and international expeditions. Routes on North Face and East Ridge variations explored.
2000s Commercial Era
International adventure companies began offering commercial expeditions, especially attracting climbers from Europe.
2010s Modern Climbing
Multiple summits each season, used as preparation for 8,000m peaks. Some teams attempt speed climbs and lightweight alpine-style ascents.
Climbing Challenges
Mount Kun presents significant challenges that make it an excellent training ground for aspiring high-altitude mountaineers:
High Altitude
Serious 7,000m peak with all associated altitude challenges
Weather
Unpredictable conditions typical of the Zanskar Range
Technical Routes
Multiple route options with varying technical difficulty
Glacier Travel
Requires careful navigation of crevassed terrain
Expedition Details
Best Climbing Season
- Summer: June-September
- Winter: Possible but extremely challenging
The summer months offer the most stable weather windows for summit attempts.
Permits & Regulations
- Permit: Required via the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)
- Restricted Zone: Special permissions may be required for certain areas
- Environmental Guidelines: Strict eco rules apply in the region
Why Climb Kun?
Historic Significance
Climb one of the first 7,000m peaks ever summited in the Himalayas.
Training Ground
Excellent preparation for higher Himalayan peaks like Everest or K2.
Less Crowded
Experience a true wilderness adventure away from commercial climbing routes.
Gallery
Ready to Climb a Piece of Himalayan History?
Join our expertly guided Kun Expedition and challenge yourself on this historic 7,000-meter peak in the Zanskar Range.
Book Your Expedition